Our Top 10 Favorite Vintage Classic Cars of All Time


Our Top 10 Favorite Vintage Classic Cars of All Time

Fаr from bеіng mеrеlу bеаutіful tо look аt, vintage саrѕ аrе аlѕо frеԛuеntlу wоrth a grеаt deal оf money. Hеrе іѕ оur lіѕt of TEN оf the most valuable, some with thе аmоunt of mоnеу rеԛuіrеd tо рurсhаѕе thеm. Rеmеmbеr that уоu соuld еаѕіlу еmрtу уоur wаllеt оn саrѕ lіkе thеѕе!

  1. Ford Mustang (1964)

Although thе fіrѕt Fоrd Mustangs wеrе bаdgеd аѕ 1965 mоdеlѕ, thе earliest саrѕ were actually рrоduсеd between March 9 аnd July 31, 1964. Often dubbеd thе 1964 1/2 Muѕtаng, the aggressively styled соuре sparked a pony саr revolution, with Chevrolet, Dоdgе аnd others ѕсurrуіng tо rеlеаѕе thеіr оwn take оn thе аffоrdаblе ѕроrtѕ саr. Tоdау, the Mustang іѕ rіghtlу rеvеrеd аѕ аn ісоn of American great muscle cars. Estimated Value $200,000. (more…)


Top 5 Superb Muscle Cars


Top 5 Superb Muscle Cars

Thеrе аrе fеwеr саrѕ that gеt a heart beating fаѕtеr, реrhарѕ, than thе сlаѕѕіс muѕсlе car mоdеlѕ from thе 1960’ѕ аnd 1970’ѕ. These Amеrісаn-mаdе two door mіd-ѕіzеd ѕеdаnѕ were рорulаr for drag rасіng аnd wеrе hіgh performance уеt ѕtіll аffоrdаblе. Tоdау, muѕсlе саrѕ are hіghlу sought after bу collectors аnd еnthuѕіаѕtѕ not only because they’re grеаt саrѕ, but аlѕо bесаuѕе thеу rерrеѕеnt a nostalgic lооk аt thе past. Here’s a lіttlе bіt оf іnfо аbоut ѕоmе оf thе tор muѕсlе cars of all tіmе.

  1. 1965 Fоrd Mustang

Arguably соnѕіdеrеd аѕ thе “Grаnddаddу оf Muscle Cаrѕ”, thе Muѕtаng took the wоrld by storm whеn іt wаѕ fіrѕt introduced at thе 1964 World’s Fair іn Nеw Yоrk City. It wаѕ looked upon аѕ ѕеxу bу wоmеn but mеn lіkеd іt tо, mаkіng its design a mоdеl for all thаt fоllоwеd thеrеаftеr. The addition of a V-8 engine іn thе 1965 mоdеl mаdе іt a real muѕсlе car, аnd оvеr a mіllіоn of thеm were ѕоld, еxсееdіng all sales еxресtаtіоnѕ. (more…)


5 Great Affordable Classic Cars for Restoration


5 Great Affordable Classic Cars for RestorationClаѕѕіс саr restoration іѕ a fun hobby fоr thоѕе wіth bоth an іntеrеѕt іn саrѕ аѕ wеll as thеіr history. There аrе many dіffеrеnt tіmе реrіоdѕ from whісh rеѕtоrеd саrѕ соmе frоm, and еасh hоbbуіѕt hаѕ their оwn favorite dесаdе оr еvеn ѕіnglе year whеrе thеіr favorite car was рrоduсеd.

Othеr hobbyists lіkе сеrtаіn genres оf саrѕ, such аѕ woody wagons, еxоtісѕ, оr muѕсlе cars. Let’s look at 5 classics that shouldn’t cost you an arm and a leg, depending on the condition in which you found them, of course.

A Sports Car

  1. If you like to feel the wind in your hair while driving an old sports coupe, then look at restoring a 1959 Austin-Healey Sprite. This model is even smaller than a VW Beetle but a darn site more attractive to look at. These Sprites remain popular as collector cars and still race in vintage competitions.



Retaining Your Vintage Car Horn For A More Classic Look


One component that is common among vintage car models is its electric car horn. This type of horn has been used since the early 1900s and it’s cool to retain them in your classic car. Its unique sound quality is what really makes it great!

Retaining the original, vintage car horns in your vehicle requires that you know its basic operation, diagnostic tips and other essential things to its common problems.

What are the different types of horn?

Through the years, the shape and size of car horns have changed drastically. Older models, those built around 1930s, like the MG TC Series Roadster are installed with a 12-inch, trumpet style car horn. The horns look much like the trumpets and saxophones you can see at http://windplays.com/. Later models produced during the 60s era carry a snail shell – a more compact vintage car horn. But regardless of the horn design, the horns are usually mounted just behind the grille giving it a prominent location on the vintage car’s frontage.

Perhaps, the most radical technical change was when the horn button was relocated from the dash to the steering column. Being close to the driver’s hands, the horn is much easier and faster to activate.

Car horns have also transformed from single to a dual set up. This major upgrade ensured a backup in case one of the horns failed, at the same time, offered a diversity of sound with two distinctive sound frequencies produced by each horn. Moreover, having two different tones has increased the loudness slightly but has a great impact on human recognition of the warning noise.

How horns work?

Although much has changed with the looks of horns, the most basic mechanisms are still much the same. Horns work by energizing an electromagnet that operates a thin steel diaphragm built into snail shaped amplification housing. A lot of horn models will have an adjustment screw which changes the distance between the diaphragm and the electromagnet to achieve desired sound quality.

How the sound device is powered vary depending on the model, make and year of the horn. The basic operation uses the contacts mounted onto the steering wheel. When the horn button is depressed, the contacts close allowing the batter voltage to run to the relay. Since the steering wheel changes position while the column does not, it’s important to use a contact brush and ring to ensure voltage flow regardless of the position of the steering wheel.

Once the voltage reaches the horn relay, the magnetic coil inside is powered up which then closes the contacts and the sound device is activated. This mechanism is used since the horn circuits can gobble up a lot of amperage. Usually, the horn can draw around 5-9 amperes – which makes a power-hungry automobile part.

Checking vintage car horn problems

Locating malfunctions with vintage horns is fairly easy – thanks to its simple circuitry. However, an assistant comes very handy to push on the horn button while performing the tests. When checking the sound device, the first to check is the power source and the ground. While the horn button is pressed, use a multimeter or test light to check if there is power.

If the sound device does not have power, you can check the fuse if it’s busted. If the fuse is okay, then check the relay if power is passing through it. Malfunctioning horn relays is also a common problem in vintage car horns. If power doesn’t reach the relay from the steering column, then check the brush and slip ring or the horn contacts.

If there is a good power and ground at the car horn, yet it doesn’t honk or responds poorly, check to see if there is damage or corrosion inside the thin metal diaphragm. Expect problems to be more common among older automobiles. If you are unable to troubleshoot the problem, you can bring your vintage car to a car repair shops specializing in classic cars restorations. These folks could help solve your vintage car horn problems.


Disc Brake or Drum Brake: Why Cars Use Two Braking Mechanisms?



When closely checking vintage cars, especially those made prior to the 70’s, chances are you’ll find drum brakes on all its wheels. But when it comes to newer models, those made during the late 80’s, you’ll likely see disc brake on the front wheels and drum brakes at the rear.

So, what are the difference, and why the need to bring in disc brakes? Here’s a quick look at these two types of braking systems.

Drum Brakes

Before we even get too technical (well, not really very technical), let me be clear on one thing: when we talk about drum brakes, we’re not referring to drum sets like those you can see at Barking Drum; we’re talking about a type of drum-shaped braking system – a precursor of the modern braking technologies.

The dish-shaped drum brakes are where the wheel bolts on to. Inside the drum brakes are two large, curved brake pads that push outward to stop or slow down the car. When the driver presses the brake pedal, the slave cylinder pushes the two brake pads outwards. This results in the pads rubbing against the drum’s inside and thus slowing the wheel. The mechanism used in drum brakes is relatively simple and logical, and also reliable.

But there comes some drawbacks with this vintage braking system. Firstly, it can be less reliable when it goes through some water and less efficient when it gets hot. Since metal expands when hot, the drum brakes grow away from the pad. This means you need to press the brake pedal deeper to get your needed braking. This is not good news especially when maneuvering down a slope on a switchback road or when driving through some country roads and need a sudden halt.

Secondly, it’s quite difficult to put them back together unless you’re a skilled auto mechanic.

Disc Brakes

A much modern braking system, disc brakes works like those you see in bicycles. The disc brakes clamping on either sides of a spinning disc with brake pads. Unlike drums, disc brakes get larger when they warm up thus they get closer to the pads, meaning you don’t need to push deep to get a good brake. Also, driving through water won’t affect its braking power since the water just falls of the disc. This brake type is more efficient than drum brakes and also much easier to set up.

Some cars use ‘cross drilled’ disc brakes which comes with small holes drilled through the face of the disc. Originally, the disc brakes were punched with holes to help remove gas due to heat. However, with the advanced construction and more resilient materials now used with modern pads, these holes are just there for show.

If disc brakes are better, why are drums still used?

You might be wondering why cars still use drum brakes if indeed disc brakes are sufficient. The thing is – disc brakes work primarily on hydraulics and as such are not possible for hand or emergency brakes. When disc brake is clamped, as it cools down after use the disc slightly shrinks, which requires more force on the brakes to keep the car in halt. This is a lot trickier and also more expensive – something that is not an issue with a drum brake.

A lot of modern cars still employ two braking types – rear drum brakes and front disc brakes. Sports cars also use drum brakes as secondary braking mechanism, although rear discs are almost as efficient.


The History of Chevrolet in a Nutshell



Almost everyone, especially if you’re an American, knows the story of Henry Ford and how Ford Automotive became the first major seller of cars in the world. However, few people know the history of Chevrolet, and especially in the US these cars are even more popular than Fords. So today I’m going to tell you the story of Chevrolet and how they get to where they are today. Ready? Here we go!

The idea of Chevrolet Motors came from the famous (at the time!) racecar driver Louis Chevrolet. Chevrolet had enough clout in 1911 to catch the attention of William Durant, who used to be on the board of directors at General Motors. However, in 1910 he was removed from management. Durant still had connections, including investor William Little and Canadian GM CEO R.S. McLaughin. They moved operations to Detroit and began making models. The first pre-production Chevrolet came out in 1912, but the first commercial Chevy didn’t roll out until around 1913.

The famous “bowtie” emblem that people associate with Chevy has a few different origin stories, and no one seems to know which one is the correct one. Some people think that was based off a design that Louis Chevrolet saw on his wallpaper one time. Others think that it is a stylized version of the Swiss cross, his parents’ country of origin. Whichever version of the story it was (and I myself am very partial towards the second version!), it is an extremely recognizable brand image and has been for over a century.

In 1916, Louis Chevrolet decided that he did not like the design of the cars that Durant was making; he was a bit disillusioned with the entire process. Chevrolet sold Durant his share of the company and parted ways. By that time Durant had so heavily associated Chevrolet’s name with the company that his celebrity image sold the cars even if he wasn’t part of the company.

Durant was able to use his controlling interest in the company to parlay his way back into upper-level GM management; he combined Chevy’s production with GM and made it a separate product division in 1919. Production was huge; massive warehouse requiring tons of storage pallets like the ones from Kronus Collars were needed. Many GMC trucks were actually rebranded as Chevrolets at the time; the Chevy name was connected with quality and careful craftsmanship, whereas GM’s cars were good but not GREAT. Chevy’s name brought a lot of money to both companies.

Another interesting fact is that Chevy’s V8 motor design has remained almost exactly the same since 1955; this is the longest production motor in any business. Most of the parts for the old version don’t work with the modern version, but the overall frame and design have not changed at all. Chevrolet is as American as apple pie; more country music songs than you can count have used the Chevy name. This small Detroit company has become one of the world’s leading brands in any category.


Best Cars To Modify



One of the most common questions I get from people who are looking to start modding their own cars is “what kind of car should I start with if I want to get into modding?” My answer to that question is usually some variation of “it depends.” It honestly depends on what you are looking to get from the car. Today I’m going to give you a broad-strokes overview of the best types of modding cars in different categories; if you want to make your car the most powerful/fastest/best-looking, I’ll have something for you! Here we go… The best types of cars for different modifications!

Subaru WRX/STI

This car is one of my personal favorites for modification work, just because it is so cheap. These cars don’t run you much, and they are fairly powerful right out of the factory. This car is the best low-budget stock car you’ll ever lay hands on. These make great rally cars, but they need a little something. An improved air intake, engine upgrades, and nitro injectors can go a LONG way in these small cars. The Subaru WRX/STI is a great way to get your hands dirty in car modification.

The Eagle Talon

Have you overlooked this car, a combination of Mitsubishi and Chrysler, because its pedigree sounds a bit… Off? Don’t worry, you’re not the only person to underestimate the raw power of a car like this… And you’re not the first person to be wrong about it either! This car packs a much larger punch than you’d expect from a seemingly humble vehicle. Once again, this car begs for a few simple upgrades to really put a punch in the performance.

The Ford Mustang

Ok, if you HADN’T guessed that the Mustang would make a fantastic mod car, I don’t know what to tell you. The Ford Mustang has a shocking amount of mod potential; some intrepid individuals have been able to coax over 1000hp out of their modded Mustangs. The stock engine is amazing… Why not try to get a little more power out of this beast?

Nissan Sentra

Stay with me on this one. I know this car looks like the kind of car that will break as soon as you take it on the open road, but it DOES in fact have a LOT of potential. The outside doesn’t look good (at all!) but the engine… MAN. For what you end up paying for the car, you will get a lot of horsepower. You will need to summon skills like ninjas from http://goodbye.ninja/; but you CAN get a powerful car out of the deal in the end!

And that is my list of the best modding cars! Obviously there are many, many more that I couldn’t get to in just one day, but this list should get you started!


How Much Do You REALLY Need To Know About Cars?


how-much-do-you-really-need-to-know-about-carsOne question I get a lot from people who are looking to modify their cars for the first time is “how much do I need to know about cars before I start?” I usually answer that question with a question of my own: “What do you plan to modify?”

See, modification is a VERY broad term. Adding a new type of sparkplug to get your engine to start a little faster and more fuel-efficiently could be considered modification. So could adding an entirely new engine block! Modification is a broad term, with broad implications for the user.

The first thing I would tell you is to take a look at your car. Some cars are much easier to work with, and some are easy to mess up if you don’t know what you’re doing! If you don’t know too much, ask yourself how much damage you are willing to pay to clean up. This will help eliminate and narrow some of your options as far as modification goes. Some modifications are far too expensive for the average person to do, and if you mess them up your problems are multiplied.

Think about it this way. If you bought a new air rifle from http://riflejudge.com/, you would feel comfortable doing SOME things to improve it, but not others. For example, you’d have no problem trying a new type of pellet or scope (that was approved by the manufacturers!) but you wouldn’t try to put a new barrel on it. You might get hurt doing that.

That is my general guideline for modding cars. If you haven’t had the proper training and experience, don’t do anything that directly affects the driving of the car. No new motors, no nitrous systems, nothing like that. However, if you have the equipment (and an artistic eye!) you can repaint the car, no problem! Also, it’s no big deal to add a radio or new sound system to your car.

Some modifications are easy and won’t affect your safety, but if you feel like you need to wear safety gear in order to perform the mod, you’re probably better off NOT doing it. Your safety is nothing to play around with!

If you want to learn more about modding cars professionally, I’d recommend you start by taking a part-time job at a mechanic! They’ll teach you most of what you need to know. You can also read the articles here. However, my disclaimer is that we cannot take responsibility for what you do with your car, and you should always consult a trained mechanic (or better yet let them do it) if you plan to make major modifications.

I hope I’ve cleared up what seems to be many people’s’ questions about how you should perform mods, and how to do them safely. Happy driving, and be safe!


Do You Want to Know the Top 5 Most Affordable Classic Cars? Be Sure to Read This


I’m a fan of classics. And they’re not just classic cars.

I also love classical music. In fact, I’ve been trying hard to learn playing classical music in piano. Now you know why I bought the digital piano I read about at https://digitalpianojudge.com/.

For someone who loves the classics, owning a classic car is probably the best thing ever! I’ve always wanted to have one parked in my garage but I know these vintage autos are priced heftily–it might take a lifetime to own one.

In my search for the best priced authentic, old-school autos, I’ve found the following to be the most affordable.

  1. Chevrolet El Camino

Chevrolet El CaminoThe El Camino models were introduced in 1959-1960. This utility pickup was only produced by Chevrolet between 1964- 1987, hence having the name Chevrolet El Camino. Production of designs similar to El Camino became increased when Ford Australia received a letter from a wife of a farmer who is in need of a vehicle that may be used for weekday errands and Sunday family affairs. It works well especially at handling dry roads. However, its driver should be extra cautious when making turns since it has a light drive wheels. With proper care and maintenance, having an El Camino is a definitely a good catch.

  1. Datsun 510

40 years after production, Datsun 510 remains at the top list of classic car collector’s favorites. High demands for Datsun 510 mostly come from New Zealand, Australia and US. Several parts including transmissions, engines and suspension setups are easily substitutable. They are all alike enough to switch with slight alterations. This permitted Datsun 510 to upgrade its engine and transmission without hassle.  Basic and trustworthy mechanicals along with reasonably priced performance were the main reason for its long term reputation.

  1. Fiat 124 Sport Coupe

The four-seater Fiat 124 Sport Coupe was first manufactured in Italy. Its distinction carried about by its elegance is owed to its intelligent team of designers. Its special characteristics are all-wheel disc brakes and twin-cam engines. Since its first manufacture, Fiat 124 persistently received awes from classic cars enthusiasts because of its beautiful physique. It has a lower bonnet line andsingle headlamp. Following generation of models were modified with twin headlamps and softer suspension.

  1. Ford F-150

Ford F-100 is one of the models of Ford F-Series. The series composed of mostly medium or light duty full-size pickup trucks and some commercial vehicles and chassis cab trucks. Of all models, F 150 was deemed as the best-selling pickup vehicle since 1977. In the It was only until 1981 when it became the top selling pickup truck in the United States.  Younger variants of the Ford Series include models F-250 and F-350 which were individually designed when new series of Ford Super Duty was established. The designs that F-250 and F-350 follow are median models that link the separation between the pickup class and medium-duty trucks.

  1. Jeep Jeepster

Jeep Jeepster or the Jeepster Commando has four model variations; wagon, pickup truck roadster and convertible. It was named after its producer Kaiser Jeep, for a competition alongside Ford Bronco, Toyota Land Cruiser and International Scout. Other Jeepster models received much appraisals for its unique interior features; sliding rear windows and wholly interior trim. Jeepster Commando also was given the title C101, derived from its Cj6 101-inch wheel base. It is often associated to the antiques “Go Devil” engines for it 134ci F134 Hurricane straight-four engine.  It is supported by a 114 pound-feet of torque and 75 horsepower. It may not have the top engine for off-road trips but it would surely survive an off-road adventure. Regardless of the model, any Jeepster Commando is capable of a four-wheel drive.  Its popularity brought in continuous upgrades and new models.