Our Top 10 Favorite Vintage Classic Cars of All Time


Our Top 10 Favorite Vintage Classic Cars of All Time

Fаr from bеіng mеrеlу bеаutіful tо look аt, vintage саrѕ аrе аlѕо frеԛuеntlу wоrth a grеаt deal оf money. Hеrе іѕ оur lіѕt of TEN оf the most valuable, some with thе аmоunt of mоnеу rеԛuіrеd tо рurсhаѕе thеm. Rеmеmbеr that уоu соuld еаѕіlу еmрtу уоur wаllеt оn саrѕ lіkе thеѕе!

  1. Ford Mustang (1964)

Although thе fіrѕt Fоrd Mustangs wеrе bаdgеd аѕ 1965 mоdеlѕ, thе earliest саrѕ were actually рrоduсеd between March 9 аnd July 31, 1964. Often dubbеd thе 1964 1/2 Muѕtаng, the aggressively styled соuре sparked a pony саr revolution, with Chevrolet, Dоdgе аnd others ѕсurrуіng tо rеlеаѕе thеіr оwn take оn thе аffоrdаblе ѕроrtѕ саr. Tоdау, the Mustang іѕ rіghtlу rеvеrеd аѕ аn ісоn of American great muscle cars. Estimated Value $200,000. (more…)


Top 5 Superb Muscle Cars


Top 5 Superb Muscle Cars

Thеrе аrе fеwеr саrѕ that gеt a heart beating fаѕtеr, реrhарѕ, than thе сlаѕѕіс muѕсlе car mоdеlѕ from thе 1960’ѕ аnd 1970’ѕ. These Amеrісаn-mаdе two door mіd-ѕіzеd ѕеdаnѕ were рорulаr for drag rасіng аnd wеrе hіgh performance уеt ѕtіll аffоrdаblе. Tоdау, muѕсlе саrѕ are hіghlу sought after bу collectors аnd еnthuѕіаѕtѕ not only because they’re grеаt саrѕ, but аlѕо bесаuѕе thеу rерrеѕеnt a nostalgic lооk аt thе past. Here’s a lіttlе bіt оf іnfо аbоut ѕоmе оf thе tор muѕсlе cars of all tіmе.

  1. 1965 Fоrd Mustang

Arguably соnѕіdеrеd аѕ thе “Grаnddаddу оf Muscle Cаrѕ”, thе Muѕtаng took the wоrld by storm whеn іt wаѕ fіrѕt introduced at thе 1964 World’s Fair іn Nеw Yоrk City. It wаѕ looked upon аѕ ѕеxу bу wоmеn but mеn lіkеd іt tо, mаkіng its design a mоdеl for all thаt fоllоwеd thеrеаftеr. The addition of a V-8 engine іn thе 1965 mоdеl mаdе іt a real muѕсlе car, аnd оvеr a mіllіоn of thеm were ѕоld, еxсееdіng all sales еxресtаtіоnѕ. (more…)


5 Great Affordable Classic Cars for Restoration


5 Great Affordable Classic Cars for RestorationClаѕѕіс саr restoration іѕ a fun hobby fоr thоѕе wіth bоth an іntеrеѕt іn саrѕ аѕ wеll as thеіr history. There аrе many dіffеrеnt tіmе реrіоdѕ from whісh rеѕtоrеd саrѕ соmе frоm, and еасh hоbbуіѕt hаѕ their оwn favorite dесаdе оr еvеn ѕіnglе year whеrе thеіr favorite car was рrоduсеd.

Othеr hobbyists lіkе сеrtаіn genres оf саrѕ, such аѕ woody wagons, еxоtісѕ, оr muѕсlе cars. Let’s look at 5 classics that shouldn’t cost you an arm and a leg, depending on the condition in which you found them, of course.

A Sports Car

  1. If you like to feel the wind in your hair while driving an old sports coupe, then look at restoring a 1959 Austin-Healey Sprite. This model is even smaller than a VW Beetle but a darn site more attractive to look at. These Sprites remain popular as collector cars and still race in vintage competitions.



Best Easy Modifications For Your Car



Did you get a little scared when you read the term “modifications for your car?” Believe it or not, it’s not that bad! You shouldn’t be too terribly nervous about modding your car. It’s not as hard as the professionals make it seem! The professionals WANT you to be scared, so you come to them instead of doing mods yourself. But I have faith in you! It’s not too hard to make mods to older cars, because their design is much simpler and there is much less to mess up. So here are the best mods for your car!

A New Audio System

Old cars come with one of two things: a system that works with cassettes or 8-track players, or just a radio. Neither of those really work in the modern era! They just aren’t what people want anymore. Did you know it is not only possible, it’s easy to add a much nicer speaker system to your car! In most cases, all you need to do is replace the original radio with a much more modern unit that fits into your radio slot. Those radios just use a simple plug system to draw power from the car. You won’t regret a nicer audio system in your car!

Make Your Car Pet Friendly!

Do you travel a lot with your pets? That is something your car should reflect! If your beloved pets like to ride with you, you should make a few modifications to your car to make it more fun for them to ride! Dogs Rant carries a variety of pet products to use in your car. The best place to start is probably a dog car seat to keep him or her safe!

Click here to pick up a safe and well-tested dog car seat for your family pet to use. If you wanted to, you could also pick up a lining for your sets to protect them from any claws or mess… Older leather seats need the protection for sure!

A New Set of Headlights

Headlights in older cars are usually not as powerful as modern cars. This is fine for city driving, but when it comes to country driving you really need to get something that will allow you to drive safely on a well-lit road. Most auto stores will have a listing where you can choose which headlights work best on your car; sometimes you need to make some modifications to the headlight housing to get them to work properly.

A New Paint Job

Painting a car is not as hard as people say it is. The problem is the equipment. Fortunately, you should easily be able to rent much of the equipment that you’ll need in order to finish the paint job. All you need to do is choose the colors! It’ll be easier to do a solid color instead of designs unless you’re a really good artist, but don’t let anyone limit your imagination!


8 Great Wheels For Driving This Winter Season


8-great-wheels-for-driving-this-winter-seasonWinter may be the best time to go to snowcapped mountain slopes and ski resorts to try the best all mountain skis but driving through icy roads is extra challenge. If you don’t want to subject your everyday vehicle to the horrors of winter driving, here are some low-key, older and inexpensive car models that make great for driving during this icy season.

  1. Saab 900

It may seem absurd to buy a car from a brand that has long been out in the market, but the Saab 900 costs cheaply, enough that you might not care. The engine of this car makes it great in the snow. If you are even more adventurous, you can even drive the 900 Turbo.q

  1. 5471269457_0a974a8ee4_zChevrolet Aveo

If for only the purpose of driving on snow, the Chevrolet Aveo could be a great car. There’s very little chance that you’ll fall in love with this model – except for the cheap price. It doesn’t look great when it’s brand new, but you’ll appreciate it once the winter comes.

  1. Mazda Miata

Don’t let the cold weather stop you from having fun. Give the Mazda Miata a proper set of snow tires on the wheels and top up, and it’ll surely be a good drive for the winter. The affordable price tag of this sedan makes it even more attractive.

  1. Jeep Cherokee XJ

Who doesn’t love Jeep Wranglers? But when there’s blizzard, a roof and doors are a necessity. In that case, you can pick an XJ. The engine won’t fail you and the four-wheel drive system will prevent you from getting stuck. And there’s even extra, this truck can take the mud when the snow melts.

  1. Ford Crown Victoria

If you’re looking for comfort and space for your winter beater, then the Ford Crown Victoria should be the best pick. You might think that it’s rear-wheel drive but the spacious trunk allows loading extra weight – giving the vehicle better balance. These vehicles are designed to last and you can find them sold almost anywhere.

  1. Mercedes-Benz W202 C-Class

If you’re looking for an awesome winter wheels, the W202 can be the best pick. It offers some luxury and class for your icy drive. There are also some added safety features from an ultra-low price tag, having said that, you might want to consider getting this model instead of the AMG version.

  1. GM W-Body

Any model with W-Body will be suitable for driving on snowy roads. It has a very spacious cargo area where you can place all the ski gears, accessories and stuff like the ones here at http://winterbadass.com/ that you’ll need in your ski adventure. Some great models with W-Body include the Chevrolet Lumina, Buick Century, and the Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme. No need to worry about finding spare parts as they are easily available – and inexpensive too.

  1. Subaru Impreza

Finally, this model proves to be the best winter beater. It’s not surprising to see trillions of Subarus driving in and around the snowy, slippery roads of New England during winter. The older models of Subaru are least-expensive and offer the best option for this season.


Retaining Your Vintage Car Horn For A More Classic Look


One component that is common among vintage car models is its electric car horn. This type of horn has been used since the early 1900s and it’s cool to retain them in your classic car. Its unique sound quality is what really makes it great!

Retaining the original, vintage car horns in your vehicle requires that you know its basic operation, diagnostic tips and other essential things to its common problems.

What are the different types of horn?

Through the years, the shape and size of car horns have changed drastically. Older models, those built around 1930s, like the MG TC Series Roadster are installed with a 12-inch, trumpet style car horn. The horns look much like the trumpets and saxophones you can see at http://windplays.com/. Later models produced during the 60s era carry a snail shell – a more compact vintage car horn. But regardless of the horn design, the horns are usually mounted just behind the grille giving it a prominent location on the vintage car’s frontage.

Perhaps, the most radical technical change was when the horn button was relocated from the dash to the steering column. Being close to the driver’s hands, the horn is much easier and faster to activate.

Car horns have also transformed from single to a dual set up. This major upgrade ensured a backup in case one of the horns failed, at the same time, offered a diversity of sound with two distinctive sound frequencies produced by each horn. Moreover, having two different tones has increased the loudness slightly but has a great impact on human recognition of the warning noise.

How horns work?

Although much has changed with the looks of horns, the most basic mechanisms are still much the same. Horns work by energizing an electromagnet that operates a thin steel diaphragm built into snail shaped amplification housing. A lot of horn models will have an adjustment screw which changes the distance between the diaphragm and the electromagnet to achieve desired sound quality.

How the sound device is powered vary depending on the model, make and year of the horn. The basic operation uses the contacts mounted onto the steering wheel. When the horn button is depressed, the contacts close allowing the batter voltage to run to the relay. Since the steering wheel changes position while the column does not, it’s important to use a contact brush and ring to ensure voltage flow regardless of the position of the steering wheel.

Once the voltage reaches the horn relay, the magnetic coil inside is powered up which then closes the contacts and the sound device is activated. This mechanism is used since the horn circuits can gobble up a lot of amperage. Usually, the horn can draw around 5-9 amperes – which makes a power-hungry automobile part.

Checking vintage car horn problems

Locating malfunctions with vintage horns is fairly easy – thanks to its simple circuitry. However, an assistant comes very handy to push on the horn button while performing the tests. When checking the sound device, the first to check is the power source and the ground. While the horn button is pressed, use a multimeter or test light to check if there is power.

If the sound device does not have power, you can check the fuse if it’s busted. If the fuse is okay, then check the relay if power is passing through it. Malfunctioning horn relays is also a common problem in vintage car horns. If power doesn’t reach the relay from the steering column, then check the brush and slip ring or the horn contacts.

If there is a good power and ground at the car horn, yet it doesn’t honk or responds poorly, check to see if there is damage or corrosion inside the thin metal diaphragm. Expect problems to be more common among older automobiles. If you are unable to troubleshoot the problem, you can bring your vintage car to a car repair shops specializing in classic cars restorations. These folks could help solve your vintage car horn problems.


Disc Brake or Drum Brake: Why Cars Use Two Braking Mechanisms?



When closely checking vintage cars, especially those made prior to the 70’s, chances are you’ll find drum brakes on all its wheels. But when it comes to newer models, those made during the late 80’s, you’ll likely see disc brake on the front wheels and drum brakes at the rear.

So, what are the difference, and why the need to bring in disc brakes? Here’s a quick look at these two types of braking systems.

Drum Brakes

Before we even get too technical (well, not really very technical), let me be clear on one thing: when we talk about drum brakes, we’re not referring to drum sets like those you can see at Barking Drum; we’re talking about a type of drum-shaped braking system – a precursor of the modern braking technologies.

The dish-shaped drum brakes are where the wheel bolts on to. Inside the drum brakes are two large, curved brake pads that push outward to stop or slow down the car. When the driver presses the brake pedal, the slave cylinder pushes the two brake pads outwards. This results in the pads rubbing against the drum’s inside and thus slowing the wheel. The mechanism used in drum brakes is relatively simple and logical, and also reliable.

But there comes some drawbacks with this vintage braking system. Firstly, it can be less reliable when it goes through some water and less efficient when it gets hot. Since metal expands when hot, the drum brakes grow away from the pad. This means you need to press the brake pedal deeper to get your needed braking. This is not good news especially when maneuvering down a slope on a switchback road or when driving through some country roads and need a sudden halt.

Secondly, it’s quite difficult to put them back together unless you’re a skilled auto mechanic.

Disc Brakes

A much modern braking system, disc brakes works like those you see in bicycles. The disc brakes clamping on either sides of a spinning disc with brake pads. Unlike drums, disc brakes get larger when they warm up thus they get closer to the pads, meaning you don’t need to push deep to get a good brake. Also, driving through water won’t affect its braking power since the water just falls of the disc. This brake type is more efficient than drum brakes and also much easier to set up.

Some cars use ‘cross drilled’ disc brakes which comes with small holes drilled through the face of the disc. Originally, the disc brakes were punched with holes to help remove gas due to heat. However, with the advanced construction and more resilient materials now used with modern pads, these holes are just there for show.

If disc brakes are better, why are drums still used?

You might be wondering why cars still use drum brakes if indeed disc brakes are sufficient. The thing is – disc brakes work primarily on hydraulics and as such are not possible for hand or emergency brakes. When disc brake is clamped, as it cools down after use the disc slightly shrinks, which requires more force on the brakes to keep the car in halt. This is a lot trickier and also more expensive – something that is not an issue with a drum brake.

A lot of modern cars still employ two braking types – rear drum brakes and front disc brakes. Sports cars also use drum brakes as secondary braking mechanism, although rear discs are almost as efficient.


The History of Chevrolet in a Nutshell



Almost everyone, especially if you’re an American, knows the story of Henry Ford and how Ford Automotive became the first major seller of cars in the world. However, few people know the history of Chevrolet, and especially in the US these cars are even more popular than Fords. So today I’m going to tell you the story of Chevrolet and how they get to where they are today. Ready? Here we go!

The idea of Chevrolet Motors came from the famous (at the time!) racecar driver Louis Chevrolet. Chevrolet had enough clout in 1911 to catch the attention of William Durant, who used to be on the board of directors at General Motors. However, in 1910 he was removed from management. Durant still had connections, including investor William Little and Canadian GM CEO R.S. McLaughin. They moved operations to Detroit and began making models. The first pre-production Chevrolet came out in 1912, but the first commercial Chevy didn’t roll out until around 1913.

The famous “bowtie” emblem that people associate with Chevy has a few different origin stories, and no one seems to know which one is the correct one. Some people think that was based off a design that Louis Chevrolet saw on his wallpaper one time. Others think that it is a stylized version of the Swiss cross, his parents’ country of origin. Whichever version of the story it was (and I myself am very partial towards the second version!), it is an extremely recognizable brand image and has been for over a century.

In 1916, Louis Chevrolet decided that he did not like the design of the cars that Durant was making; he was a bit disillusioned with the entire process. Chevrolet sold Durant his share of the company and parted ways. By that time Durant had so heavily associated Chevrolet’s name with the company that his celebrity image sold the cars even if he wasn’t part of the company.

Durant was able to use his controlling interest in the company to parlay his way back into upper-level GM management; he combined Chevy’s production with GM and made it a separate product division in 1919. Production was huge; massive warehouse requiring tons of storage pallets like the ones from Kronus Collars were needed. Many GMC trucks were actually rebranded as Chevrolets at the time; the Chevy name was connected with quality and careful craftsmanship, whereas GM’s cars were good but not GREAT. Chevy’s name brought a lot of money to both companies.

Another interesting fact is that Chevy’s V8 motor design has remained almost exactly the same since 1955; this is the longest production motor in any business. Most of the parts for the old version don’t work with the modern version, but the overall frame and design have not changed at all. Chevrolet is as American as apple pie; more country music songs than you can count have used the Chevy name. This small Detroit company has become one of the world’s leading brands in any category.


Best Cars To Modify



One of the most common questions I get from people who are looking to start modding their own cars is “what kind of car should I start with if I want to get into modding?” My answer to that question is usually some variation of “it depends.” It honestly depends on what you are looking to get from the car. Today I’m going to give you a broad-strokes overview of the best types of modding cars in different categories; if you want to make your car the most powerful/fastest/best-looking, I’ll have something for you! Here we go… The best types of cars for different modifications!

Subaru WRX/STI

This car is one of my personal favorites for modification work, just because it is so cheap. These cars don’t run you much, and they are fairly powerful right out of the factory. This car is the best low-budget stock car you’ll ever lay hands on. These make great rally cars, but they need a little something. An improved air intake, engine upgrades, and nitro injectors can go a LONG way in these small cars. The Subaru WRX/STI is a great way to get your hands dirty in car modification.

The Eagle Talon

Have you overlooked this car, a combination of Mitsubishi and Chrysler, because its pedigree sounds a bit… Off? Don’t worry, you’re not the only person to underestimate the raw power of a car like this… And you’re not the first person to be wrong about it either! This car packs a much larger punch than you’d expect from a seemingly humble vehicle. Once again, this car begs for a few simple upgrades to really put a punch in the performance.

The Ford Mustang

Ok, if you HADN’T guessed that the Mustang would make a fantastic mod car, I don’t know what to tell you. The Ford Mustang has a shocking amount of mod potential; some intrepid individuals have been able to coax over 1000hp out of their modded Mustangs. The stock engine is amazing… Why not try to get a little more power out of this beast?

Nissan Sentra

Stay with me on this one. I know this car looks like the kind of car that will break as soon as you take it on the open road, but it DOES in fact have a LOT of potential. The outside doesn’t look good (at all!) but the engine… MAN. For what you end up paying for the car, you will get a lot of horsepower. You will need to summon skills like ninjas from http://goodbye.ninja/; but you CAN get a powerful car out of the deal in the end!

And that is my list of the best modding cars! Obviously there are many, many more that I couldn’t get to in just one day, but this list should get you started!


How Much Do You REALLY Need To Know About Cars?


how-much-do-you-really-need-to-know-about-carsOne question I get a lot from people who are looking to modify their cars for the first time is “how much do I need to know about cars before I start?” I usually answer that question with a question of my own: “What do you plan to modify?”

See, modification is a VERY broad term. Adding a new type of sparkplug to get your engine to start a little faster and more fuel-efficiently could be considered modification. So could adding an entirely new engine block! Modification is a broad term, with broad implications for the user.

The first thing I would tell you is to take a look at your car. Some cars are much easier to work with, and some are easy to mess up if you don’t know what you’re doing! If you don’t know too much, ask yourself how much damage you are willing to pay to clean up. This will help eliminate and narrow some of your options as far as modification goes. Some modifications are far too expensive for the average person to do, and if you mess them up your problems are multiplied.

Think about it this way. If you bought a new air rifle from http://riflejudge.com/, you would feel comfortable doing SOME things to improve it, but not others. For example, you’d have no problem trying a new type of pellet or scope (that was approved by the manufacturers!) but you wouldn’t try to put a new barrel on it. You might get hurt doing that.

That is my general guideline for modding cars. If you haven’t had the proper training and experience, don’t do anything that directly affects the driving of the car. No new motors, no nitrous systems, nothing like that. However, if you have the equipment (and an artistic eye!) you can repaint the car, no problem! Also, it’s no big deal to add a radio or new sound system to your car.

Some modifications are easy and won’t affect your safety, but if you feel like you need to wear safety gear in order to perform the mod, you’re probably better off NOT doing it. Your safety is nothing to play around with!

If you want to learn more about modding cars professionally, I’d recommend you start by taking a part-time job at a mechanic! They’ll teach you most of what you need to know. You can also read the articles here. However, my disclaimer is that we cannot take responsibility for what you do with your car, and you should always consult a trained mechanic (or better yet let them do it) if you plan to make major modifications.

I hope I’ve cleared up what seems to be many people’s’ questions about how you should perform mods, and how to do them safely. Happy driving, and be safe!